1. Prepare the door for painting by cleaning it thoroughly. A clean door will accept paint better and will prevent lumps or streaks caused by dirt buildup. Be sure to clean the cracks and moldings of your panel door.
2. Use sandpaper to lightly scuff the surface. This will help the paint stick better. If there are any areas where paint is chipping, use a putty knife on these spots before sandpapering, then sand over the area. Exterior doors especially may have chipped paint due to weather exposure.
3. Use a high-quality paintbrush. You get what you pay for, and a high quality paintbrush will make the job look better. You may want to use a small roller for the flat surfaces, as well, but that is optional.
4. Choose semi-gloss sheen when selecting paint for the door. Because it is more durable than eggshell or flat finishes, it may be an especially good choice for exterior doors. Semi-gloss sheen is also easier to clean.
5. Either remove door hardware or cover it with masking tape. Be sure to remove hardware before you start painting, as this can often stir up dust caught in the lock cavity.
6. If some paint does get on the door hardware, clean it off right away with a damp cloth.
7. Place newspapers or cardboard under the door to prevent paint from spilling on your carpet or floor.
8. Paint the door panels first, starting with the molding and then painting the interior panel. Work from top to bottom. Finish each panel with an upward brush stroke to prevent dripping.
9. Beware of using too much paint at once. Paint can pool in corners and moldings or drip if you use too much. Make the first coat light. You can always add a second coat.
10. Paint the stiles and rails last. If the door swings out, paint the hinged edge. If it swings in, paint the lock side edge.

With these tips, you can paint with confidence and then sit back and enjoy your handiwork as you take in your newly painted panel doors.

1. Measure (Twice!)

The most important first step is to measure the size of your window openings (not the entire window) before you place your order for vinyl windows. The old adage, measure twice (or even three times) applies here. Make sure that your measurements are accurate, and you are measuring the right space since vinyl windows are custom made. You won’t be able to return them if they don’t fit into your old window space. To get an accurate measurement, raise the old window and measure the opening from one jamb to the other (a jamb is the wood that frames the window). If you are replacing more than one window in your house measure all of them–while they may look the same size they may not be.

2. Prepare

Remove the old window completely–including the sash and window panel that holds in the glass–from the window opening. Save the window jambs and stops that hold the windows in place–you will need reuse them later when you install your vinyl replacement windows. Make sure that the entire area is cleared of any debris from the removal process.

3. Install

Maneuver the replacement window into the opening–you will need help with this step to avoid dropping the window. Use a carpenter’s square to center the new window and slide the sides of the window behind the pre-drilled holes in the jamb. Use the saved side jambs and drill the window in place. Replace the inside stops.

Once your window is installed, check to see if it works properly. If it does, use a caulking gun to seal any gaps on the inside and outside

Spot cleaning tips for carpet

The best way to keep your carpet looking great in between deep cleanings is to make sure you clean up any spills immediately. There are several commercial carpet cleaning solutions out there, but you can actually clean many spills or stains with things you probably already have in your home. Every homeowner should have white vinegar, baking soda, ammonia and lemon juice in their home. These simple products can clean almost any spill on your carpet. For example, a mixture of vinegar and water can be rubbed on stains then blotted with a white paper towel. To make sure that you get the carpet pad clean as well, put a layer of paper towels on the spot, then put a book over it and let it sit over night. There are many other carpet cleaning tips available on-line that cover specific stains.

Deep cleaning tips for carpet

The best way to deep clean your carpets, honestly, is to hire a professional carpet cleaning service. You can use a steam cleaner or rent one, but these will not get your carpets as clean as hiring someone will. The problem with store bought steam cleaners is that they often leave a soap residue on the carpet, which actually makes carpets dirtier, because dirt then sticks to the residue. These machines are good in a pinch, but one of the best deep cleaning tips for carpets is to hire a professional.

The most common are the self-contained hot tubs. These come in two main hot tub designs, the portable spa or the hot tub. With the hot tubs, you have the heating, electrical and the filtration system included in the exterior components of the device. There is likely a cabinet where these are located. You can place them above ground. On the other hand, you can build a deck around them for a sunken look. They should not be positioned into the ground directly.

The other option you have in hot tub types is the non self-contained spa. These are permanent options and they do fit directly into the ground. Most of the equipment (heating, filtration and electrical systems) are located away from the spa, such as under a deck or out of the way. This particular type of option is better if you hoping to remain in the home long term.

Hot tub designs like these can be good options for most people, but it is important to consider the long-term implications of investing in them. If you are unsure which is best for you, compare the features of both before making a decision.

Walls

No bathroom facelift would be complete without an update to the walls. Whether you’re just adding a fresh coat of paint or installing tiles to your shower, upgrading your walls is often the first step to any bathroom repair or remodeling job. If you’re choosing tiles, you’ll find they’re affordable and very easy to install. The easy-to-follow instructions will guide you through cutting the tiles, applying the grout right to the entire installation. Wainscoting adds a great touch to the décor of bathrooms as well. You can save a lot of money by getting “leftover” boards from your lumberyard and cutting them to size yourself.

Floors

Because bathrooms are such a small room, new floors are very affordable whether you’re choosing tiles, linoleum or carpeting. Obviously, tiles will be the most expensive and time-consuming but are still a great bathroom DIY project. All the instructions you need for the installation will be included with your tiles. If you know how to measure your room and read, you’ll find this a simple job!

Fixtures

If you’re trying to cut costs on your bathroom repair, you may not want to purchase new bathroom fixtures. However, by giving them a good scrubbing, replacing washers and applying simple maintenance you’ll find they’ll provide you with years of excellent service.

Give your guests something to occupy their mind, thoughts and eyes while in your bathroom with a small magazine rack, family photos on the wall or a small plant (which, incidentally, grow beautifully in the bathroom).

The type of job, the size of the shop, the power available, and your operation will determine the welding equipment needed. Facilities can range from a small workshop at home to a multi-million operation as used in structural steel fabricating or automobile manufacturing.

Protective And Safety Equipment:

A face shield, to protect the face and eyes from the electric rays and spatter from the molten metal, is necessary. Use a shield with an adjustable headband; but some shields are held with one hand while welding with the other, or used by an observer. You will also need leather gloves, sleeves, and maybe an apron. Depending on the position being welded, you may also need a protective bib, or an entire leather jacket.

Don’t forget high top work shoes, chipping hammer, wire brush, safety glasses for chipping welds, vice gripes, and various clamps. Other equipment may include an anvil, heavy hammer, tongs or long handled pliers, and a pail of water. Note: Be sure to work in a well ventilated area.

A Welding Rod Oven is fundamental. Store unopened welding rod containers at room temperature, in a dry location. Once the container is opened place the rods in a portable or stationary Rod Oven at proper settings. Various styles and models of Rod Ovens are tailored to your needs. When the rods are taken out of the holding oven place them in a “pouch” or toolbox at the job location. Half way through the day place unused rods back in the holding oven. Keep rotating the use of your used/unused welding rods.

Cutting/Burning Outfit Is Needed:

In a stationary location “fixed” equipment may be available, but in many cases the portable Oxy/Acet burning outfits are used. The portable outfit on wheels consists of an oxygen and acetylene cylinder, with attached valves, regulators, gauges, hoses, and a cutting torch with removable welding tips for gas welding or brazing.

Machine Accessories:

Two cables of copper wire covered with a tough insulation are necessary to carry the electric current from the welding machine to the work and back to the welder. An electrode holder (stinger) and a lightweight “whip” are needed. The holder/whip should be light, well insulated and sturdy to withstand the wear from continuous handling. A ground clamp is used to attach the ground cable to the work or the welding table. You will also need cable lugs to attach the cable to the machine.

Welding Machines:

There are two basic types of machines, AC, alternating current and DC, direct current. In a small workshop with single-phase electric (house current), the 225-ampere, 240-volt transformer (aka “buzzbox”) machine is most often used. If power is obtained from public utility lines, one or more of the following welding machines can be used: Transformers, rectifiers, motor generators, and control equipment can be options.

When in doubt always check with the power company or a competent electrician before selecting a power source or machine. (A good working knowledge of welding rod selections and use is also essential.) If public utility power is not available, a portable generator driven by gasoline or diesel engine is used. A portable welding machine rated at 200 to 300 amps, with a 4 cylinder engine of 16 hp. is adequate for a wide range of jobs.

Please review all of our weld ovens for the proper storage of your welding electrodes.

There are many types of welding electrodes. This article will cover a “mild steel electrode.”

Welding electrodes are metal wires with baked on chemical coatings. The rod is used to sustain the welding arc and to provide the filler metal required for the joint to be welded. The coating protects the metal from damage, stabilizes the arc, and improves the weld. The diameter of the wire, less the coating, determines the size of the welding rod. This is expressed in fractions of an inch such as 3/32″, 1/8″, or 5/32.” The smaller the diameter means it requires less current and it deposits a smaller amount of filler metal.

The type of base metal being welded, the welding process and machine, and other conditions determines the type of welding electrode used. For example, low carbon or “mild steel” requires a mild steel welding rod. Welding cast iron, aluminum or brass requires different welding rods and equipment.

The flux coating on the electrodes determines how it will act during the actual welding process. Some of the coating burns and the burnt flux forms smoke and acts as a shield around the welding “pool,” to protect it from that air around it. Part of the flux melts and mixes with the wire and then floats the impurities to the surface. These impurities are known as “slag.” A finished weld would be brittle and weak if not for the flux. When the welded joint is cooled, the slag can be removed. A chipping hammer and wire brush are used to clean and examine the weld.

The metal-arc welding electrodes may be grouped as bare electrodes, light coated electrodes, and shielded arc or heavy coated electrodes. The type used depends on the specific properties required that include: corrosion resistance, ductility, high tensile strength, the type of base metal to be welded; and the position of the weld that is flat, horizontal, vertical, or overhead.

Welding electrodes must be kept dry. Moisture destroys the desirable characteristics of the coating and may cause excessive spattering and lead to the formation of cracks and weakness in the welded area. Electrodes exposed to humid air for more than a few hours should be preheated before use and when in doubt as to how long they were exposed they should be re-dried by heating in a suitable oven. (See Electrode Rod Storage Recommendations for proper time and temperature charts.) After they have dried, they should be stored in a moisture proof container.

The American Welding Society’s (AWS) classification number series has been adopted by the welding industry. The electrode identification example below is for a steel arc-welding rod labeled E6010:

• “E” indicates “electrode” for electric arc welding
• The first two (or three in some cases) digits (60) indicate tensile strength in thousands of pounds per square inch
• The third (or fourth in some cases) digit (1) indicates the position of the weld. An “O” indicates that this classification is not used; “1″ is for all positions; “2″ is for flat and horizontal positions only; 3 is for flat position only
• The last two digits together (10) indicate the type of coating and the type of power supply required, 10 organic coating and DC current with reverse polarity.

Therefore, a welding rod numbered E6010 indicates “E” an manual arc-welding electrode with (60) a minimum strength of 60,000 psi., that can be used (1) in all positions and (10) DC reverse polarity is required.

Please review all of our welding rod ovens for the proper storage of your welding electrodes.

]]> http://www.local500.org/welding-techniques/types-of-welding-electrodes/feed 0 http://www.local500.org/welding-techniques/fundamental-tips-to-improve-stick-welding-skills http://www.local500.org/welding-techniques/fundamental-tips-to-improve-stick-welding-skills#comments Fri, 16 Sep 2011 09:43:53 +0000 http://www.local500.org/?p=99

Shellfish can make you a better welder. Simply think about CLAMS: Current setting, Length of arc, Angle of electrode, Manipulation of the electrode and Speed of travel. If you’re just learning the Stick process, technically called Shielded Metal Arc Welding, remembering these five points will improve your welding technique.

Before leaping into the “how to weld” information presented later in this article, take a minute to review the following advice, especially if you’ve never struck an arc or are still debating which machine to buy.

Q: What type of Stick welder works best for all-around use?

A: A welder with an AC/DC output, whether its an electric arc machine like Miller’s Thunderbolt or a gas engine drive like Miller’s Bobcat.

DC welding offers advantages over AC for most Stick applications, including: easier starts; fewer arc outages and sticking; less spatter/better looking welds; easier vertical up and overhead welding; easier to learn “how to weld” and a smoother arc. DC reverse polarity (electrode positive) provides about 10 percent more penetration at a given amperage than AC, while DC straight polarity (electrode negative) welds thinner metals better.

Q: Does an AC output have any advantages?

A: Yes, if you need to weld on material that’s become magnetized from friction, such as when hay, feed or water constantly rub against a steel part. A DC output won’t work because of “arc blow,” where the magnetic field blows the molten filler metal out of the weld puddle. Because an AC output alternates between polarities, it enables you to weld magnetized parts.

Q: How big of machine do I need?

A: A 225 to 300 amp machine handles almost anything the average person will encounter, as most Stick welding procedures require 200 amps or less. To weld material thicker than 3/8 in., simply make multiple passes – this is what professionals do, even when welding on 1 in. structural steel.

Q: I see the word “duty cycle” on product spec sheets? What does that mean?

A: Duty cycle is the number of minutes out of a 10-minute cycle a welder can operate. For example, the Thunderbolt XL creates a 200 amp DC output at 20 percent duty cycle. It can weld continuously at 200 amps for two minutes, and then must cool for eight minutes to prevent overheating.

Duty cycle and amperage are inversely proportional. Operating at 90 amps, the Thunderbolt has a 100 percent duty cycle, meaning you can weld without stopping. This inversely proportional rule is true of all Miller machines but does not apply to all machines made by other companies.

Q: What type of rod should I use for hardfacing?

A: Hardfacing rods can provide impact resistance, abrasion resistance or both depending on the application. Because the type of rod required depends on the type of soil or aggregate in your area, contact your local welding supply distributor and ask for their expert opinion. If you don’t know a distributor, call 1-800-426-4553 and the operator can automatically connect you to the nearest Miller distributor. You can also locate distributors through http://millerwelds.com/wheretobuy/ ENDPARA]

Q: What type of rod should I use for general work on steel?

A: Common electrodes used for general work include 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018 and 7024, each of which has specific properties: 6010 electrodes penetrate deeply, while 6013 electrodes penetrate less. For much better bead appearance and work on higher strength steels (say for a hitch), use a 7018 rod. For better penetration on thick material, grind the joint to a 30 degree bevel (leave a nickel-width land on the bottom of the groove) and make multiple passes. Alternatively, make the first pass with a 6010 rod, then make a “cap” with a 7018. The 7024 rod is perhaps the easiest to use. Also known as a “drag rod,” this electrode’s thick flux automatically maintains the correct arc length, which allows you to drag the rod directly along the work piece.

Q: Do I have to remove rust or oil before welding?

A: Stick welding is more forgiving on unclean conditions, but it never hurts to clean parts with a wire brush or grind off excess rust. If you prepare well and have average welding ability, you can make a sound weld. However, even great welding skill cannot overcome poor preparation, as it can lead to cracking, lack of fusion and slag inclusions.

Described below are the procedures for installing your own carpet.

First, nail in your tack strip around the entire perimeter of the area to be carpeted, except any doorways.   Leave a gully between the tack strip and the wall the width of the new carpet’s thickness.   Then spread out your underlay with the smooth side up, ensuring it is the right type recommended for the carpet you’re planning to install.

Once you’ve got your underlay down, trim away the carpet’s factory selvage (the edge of a carpet that is woven so that it will not fray or ravel) as recommended by the manufacturer – usually this is about 2 cm from the selvage (if necessary).

Roll out your carpet and let it relax before putting it in place.   Before and during installation make sure there is proper ventilation in the area where you’ll be laying your carpet and be sure to keep the area dry.

If you are planning to use hot melt tape to seal the fresh cut seams of your carpet you’ll need to use the carpet stretcher to condition the carpet for the non-stretchy hot melt tape.   For tufted carpets you should use either tape and latex, hot melt tape, electric tape or pin tape.  For most woven carpets, only hand sewing and pin tape are recommended.

When using the power stretcher follow the manufacturer’s instructions for its use.  Only apply the degree of stretch required for the particular carpet type.   Then hook the carpet onto the tack strip and trim the excess.    When using a wall trimmer be careful to leave enough excess carpet to tuck into the gully and don’t staple your carpet to the tack strip.

Carpeting stairs

If you are installing new carpet to a staircase you should make sure the stair nosing’s are well rounded to prevent unnecessary damage to both your carpet and underlay. For a good fit, cut the underlay about 3 cm narrower than the width of the stairs so you’ll be able to turn the carpeting edge under. You may also need to install tack strip on each step to maintain proper tension in the carpeting.

Attach tack strip on each tread and riser with pins on the steps aiming toward the riser and having the pins of the riser tack strip pointing down toward the tread.   The gully you leave between the treads should be a little less than twice your carpet’s thickness.

Then:

• put down your underlay
• use a knee kicker or stair stretcher to install your carpeting
• fit your carpet to the tack strip tightly,  pushing it into the gullies between the treads and the risers using a stair tool
• make sure the carpeting lays smoothly over the stairwell’s steps.

When you’re done remove the excess trim and vacuum.   You’re now ready to enjoy your new carpet.

Wall decals are best applied to relatively smooth surfaces where the paint has fully cured. It is best to wait approx 2 weeks after painting before you apply a decal. Decals can be used on mirrors, windows, metal, plaster, gyprock walls that have been sealed, and some cement rendered surfaces. On cement render we recommend testing a small decal first because the textured surface may affect long term adhesion of the decal. Decals can also be used on furniture, tiles or anything where the surface has been painted or sealed and is reasonably smooth.

Step-by-step wall decal installation instructions

• Ensure surface is dust and grease free
• Clean with sugar soap and rinse if grime is present
• Read instructions
• Peel decal or sticker from backing and position lightly
• If the decal is large having a second person will make it easier during installation
• Apply and smooth over decal surface with a soft cloth

Wall decal installation steps

• On some surfaces e.g mirrors, windows, or metals the decal may stick quickly. To avoid this and allow repositioning dampen the surface slightly and then apply your decal
• Try to avoid handling the adhesive side too much and don’t drop onto a dusty surface e.g carpet. It will cause problems with adhesion.
• Place your decal under heavy books for a few hours to help flatten it out before you remove backing and attempt application.
• Mark your wall with some chalk lightly as a guideline on where you are going to place your decal. Alternately you can position it by using a small amount of low tack tape and then stand back to view and to ensure it’s exactly where you want it.

How to avoid problems:

• Do not apply to fresh paint. The evaporating solvents during drying can make their way into the adhesive on the decal and render it useless. Wait 2-3 weeks for your paint to “cure”. Touch dry is not appropriate for application of your decal
• Test on painted render surfaces and avoid using on some paint finishes like suede effects and render or stone effects. The texture will often cause edges to lift.
• Do not apply to cold damp surfaces; e.g., a moist bathroom or laundry wall or tiles. Wait till warmer and surface is dry. Wall decals are suitable for using in these areas though.
• Do not apply to walls in a home that has just had the floors coated with a solvent type sealer. As the floor coating is drying, some solvents can also affect the sticker adhering properly
• Some Paint companies may add “Teflon” to their wall finishes enhancing durability for cleaning. These finishes may affect the adhesion of some decals.
• Discourage young fingers from peeling back and touching. Eventually the sticker edge will curl and will not be able to be stuck back down
• If you have a reusable wall decal and wish to use it later in another location, ensure you keep the packaging and original backing so it can be stuck back and transported easily. You can also use baking paper if original packaging is no longer available.